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Vista. Revista de Cultura Visual

On-line version ISSN 2184-1284

Vista  no.15 Braga Jan. 2025  Epub June 30, 2025

https://doi.org/10.21814/vista.6628 

Introductory Note

An Introduction - Fashion and Multiple Perspectives

iFaculdade de Ciências Humanas e Sociais, Universidade Fernando Pessoa, Porto, Portugal

iiCentro de Estudos de Comunicação e Sociedade, Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade do Minho, Braga, Portugal

iiiDepartamento de Design, Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil


There is a pervasive tendency to simplify social phenomena by adopting perspectives that highlight certain dimensions while neglecting others that may, in fact, be significant. This inclination towards simplification appears to stem from the desire to condense analysis and reach conclusions or solutions to complex problems more rapidly.

In the preface to his seminal work Introdução ao Pensamento Complexo (Introduction to Complex Thought), Edgar Morin (1990/2005) appeals to thought itself - conceived as a supreme entity - to "dispel the mists and darkness" (p. 5) so that the rules governing us may be revealed and the light of knowledge may shine. Yet, the concept of "complexity", which defines our existence in all its dimensions, brings us not clarity but "discomfort", "confusion", and an inability to comprehend the world in simplistic terms. Morin (1990/2005) asserts a core premise of his philosophical reflections: that "simplistic modes of knowledge mutilate" (p. 5). This mutilation occurs because we are not permitted to explore the multiple layers that constitute reality and its phenomena, resulting in a form of cognitive blindness that prevents deeper understanding. One contributing factor to this narrowing of vision is the increasing scarcity of time available to us.

Morin (1990/2005) initially defines complexity as that which cannot be expressed in a single word and provocatively suggests that, in a time of profound uncertainty, complete knowledge is, in fact, impossible. Philosophers have long borne witness to this reality - summarised succinctly by Adorno (1964/2005), who argued that "totality is non-truth". Norman (2011) also reminds us of this essential condition by asking why things are not simple and answering plainly: "because life is complex". Complexity, he stresses, is not incidental but structural - it defines societies and is integral to their very formation.

From this standpoint, it follows that any meaningful understanding of the world - and any attempt to address its problems with greater clarity and precision - requires openness to a plurality of perspectives. These perspectives allow us to illuminate the interwoven structures of life. No single viewpoint can encompass the totality of interconnected systems and relationships, which are dynamic, interdependent and often unpredictable. Different types of knowledge and experience must, therefore, engage in dialogue, offering interpretations that may diverge or even contradict one another but which are nonetheless mutually enriching. Valuing such plurality means recognising that reality is composed of nuance, contradiction and interdependence - features that only emerge fully when observed from multiple vantage points. Only through such multiplicity can we approach truth, whatever form it may take.

This approach can be extended to all fields of human knowledge and activity. However, our focus here is on one of the most complex and fascinating phenomena in human history: fashion. Fashion has traversed and shaped human societies across time. Its reach - spanning social, economic, technological, environmental and cultural domains - confers upon it a distinct aura. This wide-ranging influence extends from the production of raw materials and manufacturing processes to communication, distribution, aesthetics, and environmental concerns, among others. These varied elements interlace individuals in a network of effects, both material and symbolic. As a mirror of who we were, are and may become - across past, present, and future - fashion has consistently demonstrated its capacity to leave a tangible mark on daily life, capturing the Zeitgeist of each era, shaped by the multitude of circumstances that define our lived experiences.

As Berlim (2012) suggests, garments and accessories function not merely as utilitarian items but as cultural artefacts interwoven with magic, identity and communication. Owing to this individual and collective significance, fashion is a multifaceted concept that reflects our circumstances as well as the aspirations that inspire us. It is a mirror of our shared human personality and purpose. One such purpose - increasingly urgent - concerns the environmental impact associated with the fashion industry. It is estimated that the industry produces over 100 million tonnes annually. It is worth noting that, alongside the significant increase in clothing production, garment usage has declined considerably since at least 2000 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, as cited in Muller & Mesquita, 2018).

The title of this issue, "Fashion and Multiple Perspectives", opens a window to diverse analytical approaches to the many challenges that shape fashion and, more broadly, the clothing industry. As a visible expression of the social actor that is the "self", clothing embodies a declaration: "this is who I am" - a visual representation of identity. Humans are the only species to change their "skin" daily, a practice laden with social, cultural and environmental implications. Fashion projects the future; it reflects the present and enables experimentation with materials, aesthetics and attitudes.

It extends across intersecting and complementary domains, characterised by diversity and transformation. This issue aims to transcend standard disciplinary boundaries, encouraging the intersection of fields from multi-, inter-, and transdisciplinary perspectives that give rise to new forms and relational constellations. The "multiple perspectives" invoked in this call for contributions reflect the need to explore a wide array of methodological and conceptual approaches, thereby assembling a corpus of knowledge that offers a truly pluralistic understanding of fashion.

Acknowledgements

This work is funded by national funds from the FCT - Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, I.P., as part of the 2025-2029 funding of the Communication and Society Research Centre (CECS).

REFERENCES

Adorno, T. (2005). Dialéctica negativa. La jerga de la autenticidad (A. B. Muñoz, Trad.). Ediciones Akal. (Trabalho original publicado em 1964) [ Links ]

Berlim, L. (2012). Moda e sustentabilidade: Uma reflexão necessária. Editora Estação das Letras e Cores. [ Links ]

Morin, E. (2005). Introdução ao pensamento complexo (E. Lisboa, Trad.). Editora Meridional. (Trabalho original publicado em 1990) [ Links ]

Muller, M., & Mesquita, F. (2018). Admirável moda sustentável, vestindo um mundo novo. Adverte. [ Links ]

Norman, D. (2011). Living with complexity. The MIT Press. [ Links ]

Machine Translation Post-Editing: Anabela Delgado

Francisco Mesquita holds a postdoctoral qualification from the School of Communications and Arts at the University of São Paulo (Brazil), a PhD and a master's degree from the University of Minho (Guimarães, Portugal), and an undergraduate degree from Fernando Pessoa University (Porto, Portugal). He is a lecturer at University Fernando Pessoa, teaching in the areas of Advertising, Design, Creativity, and Innovation. He coordinates postgraduate courses in Marketing, Advertising, and Design for small and medium-sized enterprises. His artistic practice involves the use of "intelligent" pigments, which change colour in response to specific environmental stimuli. Email: fmes@ufp.edu.pt Address: Universidade Fernando Pessoa. Praça de 9 de Abril 349, 4249-004 Porto, Portugal

Lilyan Guimarães Berlim holds a PhD in Social Sciences from the Federal Rural University of Rio de Janeiro and a master's degree in Environmental Sciences from the Universidade Federal Fluminense, with a focus on transformations in the fashion market in relation to sustainability. She is a consultant on sustainability and new businesses in fashion at Sebrae. She is a member of the scientific committee of the Global Fashion Conference. She is a guest lecturer for the master's programme at the Nottingham Trent University Business School (United Kingdom). She teaches undergraduate and extension courses at the School of Advertising and Marketing, Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora, and the Istituto Europeo di Design, among others. She is a specialist in the luxury market, a course manager in the related segment. She has worked as a textile designer for brands in Rio de Janeiro since 1986. Email: lilyan.berlim@espm.br Address: Rua Mariz e Barros 59, aptº603, Icaraí, Niterói, RJ. Cep - 242201221

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