1. Introduction

As we move into the second decade of the 21st century, driven largely by the impact of new technologies, advertising is reaffirming its position as an essential tool for promoting behavioural change in a range of sectors, including fashion. The growing urgency for practices that align economic development with environmental and social responsibility has become a central theme (^{Comissão Mundial sobre Meio Ambiente e Desenvolvimento, 1987}), influencing everything from consumer habits to the strategic organisation of industries in the face of the challenges posed by climate change and its impact on the planet.

Among the most impactful and frequently criticised industries is fashion. Known both for its significant social and cultural impacts and for being one of the most polluting industries in the world (^{Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017}; ^{United Nations Environment Programme, 2019}), fashion faces the challenge of transforming its production and consumption model. The large-scale production model, popularised by fast fashion, has brought accessibility and innovation but has also left serious problems such as excessive consumption of natural resources, increased waste and labour exploitation (^{Anner, 2020}; ^{Fashion Revolution, 2022}). In this context, sustainable fashion has emerged as a plural movement that seeks to balance production with ethical and environmental concerns (^{Gwilt, 2014}; ^{Müller & Mesquita, 2018}). However, the consolidation of this movement and the implementation of its proposals depend, to a large extent, on how brands communicate their practices and values to the public. Advertising, in this sense, is positioned as a strategic pillar for the sector.

Based on data from the dissertation Alternativas Entre Luxo e Desperdício: Publicidade no Contexto da Moda Sustentável (Between Luxury and Trash: The Advertising in the Context of Sustainable Fashion; ^{Silva, 2024}), this article addresses the role of advertising in sustainable fashion. Through a multiple case study involving four brands - two Brazilian and two Portuguese - their communication strategies were analysed. The focus of the analysis was on how these brands seek to adopt communication practices that truly reflect their sustainable and ethical values (such as the origin of materials, low-impact production processes, and fair labour relations) and the content of their proposals. In a market still dominated by traditional communication practices and excessive consumerism, the way small and medium-sized sustainable fashion brands use advertising is crucial to help educate consumers and promote more conscious consumption. In this sense, this article also proposes a discussion on the central role of advertising as a means of translating ethical values into clear and engaging messages, highlighting the use of green marketing and the creation of an advertising language aligned with the principles of sustainability described above. By analysing the communication strategies of small and medium-sized brands operating in Portugal and Brazil, the study seeks to contribute to the implementation of advertising strategies and actions that really work for the sector in question.

2. Methodology

In the empirical research that underpins this article (^{Silva, 2024}), the main objective was to analyse advertising communication in the sustainable fashion sector, comparing strategies of Brazilian and Portuguese brands to understand how advertising can convey authentic and effective messages in this context. To this end, a case study was used, which is compatible with what was sought. According to ^{Gil (2019}), the methodology of research must be consistent with its objectives and ensure scientific rigour in obtaining results. Corroborating the above statement, the method adopted was the multiple case study. As proposed by ^{Yin (2015}), which allows for in-depth analysis of complex phenomena within their real context, four brands were selected: Humana and Näz, from Portugal, and Daterra Project and Flávia Aranha, from Brazil. The selection of these brands was based on their relevance as representatives of the sustainable fashion sector in their respective countries and on the availability of public information about their communication and sustainability practices, allowing the proposed documentary analysis to be carried out.

Documentary research, or desk research, was the main data collection technique used to gather information on the sustainable practices and marketing strategies of the brands analysed. The method included the analysis of secondary sources, such as institutional reports, academic publications, advertising materials and digital content from the brands (websites and social media). Data triangulation, comparing information from different sources, ensured greater reliability of the findings.

Data coding was applied to structure the analysis, a common technique in qualitative research for organising information into thematic categories (^{Bardin, 1977/2011}). The categories created included: "value propositions", "marketing strategies", "market segmentation", "innovation and differentiation", "performance impact", "cultural and ethical aspects", and "pricing strategies". The coding allowed us to identify patterns, insights, and trends in the communication of sustainable brands in advertising.

In addition, a mixed analysis approach was used, combining qualitative and quantitative methods. Qualitative analysis predominated the interpretation of the brands' narratives and communication strategies, and quantitative analysis was applied to metrics such as digital engagement and market reach when data was available from secondary sources. MAXQDA software, a tool that allows the systematic organisation of qualitative data and its analysis through established categories, was used to assist in this process.

Another relevant aspect of the methodology was the comparative analysis between Brazilian and Portuguese brands. This approach made it possible to understand differences and similarities in the cultural and market contexts in which they operate. Following ^{Eisenhardt's (1989}) recommendation, the comparison between multiple cases can contribute to exploratory theoretical development. However, it is important to recognise that the analysis of only four cases limits the statistical inference of the results to the entire universe of sustainable fashion brands in Portugal and Brazil. The findings of this study are specific to the cases analysed and serve as a basis for future research with larger samples.

The methodological structure adopted sought to ensure the reliability and depth of the analysis, allowing for a detailed understanding of communication strategies in the sustainable fashion sector based on the selected cases. The combination of methods, data triangulation, and comparative analysis contributed to a rigorous and well-founded investigation of the proposed topic.

3. Brief Note on Fashion in Brazil and Portugal

Fashion, a multifaceted cultural phenomenon, transcends simple individual aesthetic choices to reflect the social, historical and technological values of each era. Derived from the Latin modus, "mode", fashion carries in its essence the idea of a way of presenting and expressing personal and collective identities. According to ^{Müller and Mesquita (2018}), fashion goes beyond clothing, functioning as a strategic mechanism for communication and identity construction. Thus, it constitutes a symbolic language that both shapes and is shaped by cultural, social and economic norms.

Historically, fashion has evolved from a craft and regional activity to a powerful global industry. During the European renaissance, the flourishing trade in luxury fabrics such as silk and velvet transformed clothing into a distinctive symbol of social status, especially among the emerging bourgeoisie. In the 19th century, the industrial revolution, with the invention of the sewing machine, revolutionised the sector by introducing mass production, making clothes more accessible. According to ^{Costa (2014}), the advent of ready-to-wear marked the democratisation of fashion, allowing trends to reach different social classes.

In this historical process, haute couture represents the pinnacle of exclusivity, with tailor-made pieces and highly detailed manual work. Iconic brands such as Chanel, Dior and Givenchy continue to personify this category, which is seen as an expression of luxury and art in clothing. Ready-to-wear democratised fashion by offering quality clothing with accessible designs and large-scale production, making trends more widely available. More recently, as a product and producer of the present day, fast fashion has introduced rapid cycles of production, consumption and disposal. According to the ^{Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017}), fast fashion contributes significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions and generates vast volumes of textile waste. In short, fashion is an international economic force that shapes cultural and social patterns, moving billions of dollars annually and influencing markets and behaviours on a worldwide scale (^{Amed et al., 2023}).

As the central focus of this article, which discusses the importance of advertising in the sustainable fashion industry, the case studies analysed are located in Portugal and Brazil. Portugal is widely recognised for its tradition and innovation in the textile and clothing industry. The country has a robust textile sector that stands out for its quality and capacity for innovation, especially in the production of sustainable fabrics. In addition to the textile sector, Portugal also has strong leather and cork industries that are internationally recognised for the quality of their materials, with cork being a notable example of a sustainable raw material with diverse applications, including in fashion.

According to the ^{Fashion Revolution (2023}) report, the country has made progress in implementing ethical and transparent practices in the production chain. Events such as ModaLisboa, Portugal Fashion and Modtissimo celebrate national creativity and promote the sector internationally. Sustainable initiatives have gained momentum, with Portuguese brands using innovative materials and eco-efficient production methods, positioning Portugal at the forefront of sustainable fashion by integrating the circular economy and traceability (^{Rodrigues, 2021}).

In Brazil, fashion reflects the country's cultural diversity and creative wealth. Historically influenced by European fashion, Brazilian clothing has incorporated elements from indigenous, African and local cultures, acquiring its own characteristics. Events such as São Paulo Fashion Week have consolidated Brazilian fashion on the global stage. Currently, emerging initiatives are investing in innovative solutions, such as biodegradable fabrics and production processes with low water consumption. The sector also acts as a platform for social discussions, addressing diversity and inclusion (^{Passos, 2021}).

In addition to its important economic role, Brazilian fashion also exerts a strong influence on the construction of identities and cultural narratives. Regions such as the Northeast stand out for their appreciation of handicrafts, embroidery, crochet and the use of natural fibres, promoting an original fashion with a strong identity and sustainable appeal (^{Santana & Coppola, 2021}). Designers such as Ronaldo Fraga and Isaac Silva have been protagonists in inserting social issues into the fashion discourse, valuing Black ancestry, traditional knowledge, and cultural resistance. Fashion in Brazil, therefore, is also a political and representational tool that communicates stories of territories, marginalised populations, and social movements. In economic terms, the sector is one of the largest employers in the manufacturing industry, with women accounting for more than 70% of jobs (^{Associação Brasileira da Indústria Têxtil e de Confecção, 2023}), which highlights its relevance for both development and social inclusion.

4. The Socio-Environmental Impacts of Fashion versus Sustainable Fashion

It is important to reiterate that the fashion industry is recognised as one of the largest sources of environmental impact and natural resource consumption in the world. According to the ^{Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017}), the sector is responsible for approximately 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Textile production consumes large volumes of water, with fabric dyeing and finishing accounting for about 20% of global industrial water pollution (^{United Nations Environment Programme, 2019}). These processes often use harmful chemicals that contaminate waterways and compromise ecosystems. The production chain of cotton, one of the most widely used materials, consumes vast amounts of water and depends on pesticides and chemical fertilisers that pollute the soil and water bodies. In addition, synthetic fabrics such as polyester, which account for about 60% of textile fibres, generate ocean pollution from microplastics during washing (^{Boucher & Friot, 2017}), threatening marine ecosystems and the food chain.

Beyond environmental concerns, the fashion industry is notorious for poor working conditions in its production chain. The collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh highlighted a tragedy resulting from exploitation, with low wages, exhausting working hours and a lack of safety. As highlighted by the ^{Clean Clothes Campaign (n.d.}) website, "on 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building came crashing down, killing 1,134 people and leaving thousands more injured" (para. 4). Despite reforms, labour rights violations persist, making effective monitoring of the sector difficult due to the complexity of supply chains.

On the other hand, growing consumer awareness is driving movements for greater transparency and ethical practices. The demand for sustainability and a circular economy is pressuring brands to adopt more responsible practices (^{Fashion Revolution, 2022}). Outside the fashion market, but with great relevance to this industry and the entire planet, sustainability is a very current and comprehensive concept that seeks to balance human needs with environmental preservation, social equity, and economic development (^{Comissão Mundial sobre Meio Ambiente e Desenvolvimento, 1987}). The "sustainability tripod" structures this approach on three pillars: environmental, economic, and social. The environmental pillar, which is highly impacted by the fashion industry and market, focuses on ecosystem preservation, rational use of resources, and climate change mitigation. Examples include Portugal's National Energy and Climate Plan 2021-2030 (^{República Portuguesa, 2019}) and Brazil's ABC Plan (^{Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento, 2021}), which promote sustainable practices to reduce carbon emissions and encourage energy transition.

The economic pillar aims at an inclusive growth model, job creation and sustainable financial viability. In Brazil, the Plano ABC encourages low-carbon agriculture, which is relevant to sustainable fashion through the production of natural fibres with a lower impact. In Portugal, companies such as Tintex Textiles represent industrial innovation by developing sustainable fabrics with low environmental impact, demonstrating the application of sustainability in the textile sector. These examples, although different (public policy and business initiative), illustrate efforts within the economic pillar of sustainability in each country, seeking to reconcile development with environmental responsibility.

The social pillar addresses inclusion, justice and respect for human rights. Projects such as Eco-Escolas in Portugal and the National Environmental Education Policy in Brazil (^{Ministério da Educação, 2024}) strengthen education for sustainability and citizen engagement.

From the perspective of sustainability and its pillars, fashion seeks to do its part and transform its traditionally impactful model into a more ethical and responsible sector. ^{Müller and Mesquita (2018}) highlight the use of recyclable materials, reduction of resource consumption and the valorisation of fair labour. Within the concept of sustainability, the circular economy (^{Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017}) is central to promoting reuse and extending the useful life of products. In this perspective, Portugal stands out with initiatives such as the Sustainable Fashion Manifesto of the National Association of Clothing and Apparel Industries and the actions of companies such as Tintex Textiles. In Brazil, several brands are investing in recycled materials, traceability and low-impact processes (^{Fashion Revolution, 2023}). Movements such as Slow Fashion (^{Gwilt, 2014}) promote conscious consumption. These commitments to sustainability are in line with the sustainable development goals, especially Goal 12 (^{United Nations, n.d.}). A responsible attitude is being demanded by the new consumer (^{Amed et al., 2023}).

Considering the complexity of the sector with all its variables, the transition to sustainable models requires coordinated efforts between governments, companies and consumers. Education for conscious consumption, appropriate marketing and advertising, incentive policies and transparency requirements are crucial. The future of fashion depends on innovation, ethics and environmental commitment (^{Fletcher, 2014}).

5. About Marketing and Advertising in Fashion

Technological advances have significantly improved communication, marketing and advertising tools, transforming the way we share information and interact. According to ^{Kotler et al. (2016/2017}), digital communication has not only facilitated information sharing but also transformed social and consumer dynamics, strengthening communities and changing consumers' relationships with brands. Marketing has evolved to incorporate customer-centric approaches, social and environmental concerns, and digital tools that enhance interaction between brands and consumers. Today, concepts such as relationship marketing, digital marketing, influence marketing, and green marketing stand out for their emphasis on customisation, meaningful experiences, and social and environmental responsibility.

In the fashion industry, which is characterised by its dynamism and innovation, marketing is essential for shaping consumer behaviour and sustaining brand image. In this way, marketing promotes not only products but also cultural and social values. ^{Müller and Mesquita (2018}) point out that fashion marketing, in its traditional model, often encourages a culture of continuous consumption, sometimes disregarding environmental impacts.

With the advent of digital technology, social networks and e-commerce platforms have transformed marketing and advertising communication in the sector, enabling direct interaction with consumers and agile adjustments to strategies. For ^{Kotler et al. (2016/2017}), spontaneous conversations between consumers have more credibility than traditional advertising campaigns. They emphasise that fashion marketing is crucial for brand building through the communication of stories, values, and aesthetics, as well as differentiating brands and connecting them emotionally to consumers.

The challenge for brands, especially small and medium-sized enterprises, is to capture the attention of increasingly critical and conscious consumers and convert them into brand advocates. To do this, advertising needs to become increasingly professional. With regard to sustainable fashion brands, ^{Silva's (2024}) study points out that, in general, some of them face significant challenges in the professional use of advertising and its tools to become competitive and, at the same time, effectively communicate their ethical values and social and environmental responsibility. Instead of taking advantage of the distinctive characteristics of sustainable fashion, some insist on traditionally using advertising resources with a strong focus on price, promotion and placement, failing to apply more efficient techniques and appeals that are more appropriate to the potential strategic audience. ^{Silva (2024}) suggests that effective advertising in sustainable fashion should align authentic narratives with sustainable practices, promoting the timelessness and durability of products. In this context, advertising should go beyond promotion and sales, contributing to educating and engaging consumers in a more conscious and responsible purchasing and consumption process, differentiating the brand and creating empathy with its audience. It is essential to convey the brand's concrete values. ^{Müller and Mesquita (2018}) emphasise that advertising campaigns need to highlight the positive impact of sustainable choices, emphasising reuse, recycling and the circular economy.

The use of storytelling has been widely advocated as an effective way to communicate values. However, ^{Silva's (2024}) study points out that, in the communication of the sustainable fashion sector analysed, some brands insist on telling stories similar to those of the general fashion market, missing the opportunity to highlight their major ethical and environmental differentials. It is important to understand that by sharing real and unique stories about the origins of materials, the production process, the social impact of production practices, and human relations in the workplace, companies humanise their brands and strengthen their credibility (^{EcoDebate, 2020}).

These strategies also strengthen credibility and create a culture of transparency, an essential element in building trust with well-informed consumers (^{Kotler et al., 2016/2017}). In the context of sustainable fashion, this requires the disclosure of verifiable data on production chain practices, the traceability of raw materials, the reduction of carbon emissions, and the use of renewable resources, among others. This level of transparency not only attracts conscious consumers but also promotes cultural change (^{Black, 2012}).

Applying this transparency to advertising strategies, guided by technically elaborate buyer personas based on research, enables and lends persuasive power to fair pricing policies for responsible products. Differentiated audiences that value sustainability are often willing to pay more for products that deliver greater value. Another relevant aspect is that in a scenario dominated by digital communication, social media marketing plays a central role in promoting sustainable fashion, allowing for audience segmentation and engagement. According to ^{Monteiro (2023}), digital campaigns with ethical influencers aligned with brand values can amplify sustainability messages. Digital advertising for sustainable fashion should educate and engage consumers, demonstrating that conscious choices benefit the planet while ensuring quality and style. Adopting an advertising strategy aligned with sustainability values not only strengthens brand identity but also paves the way for a more ethical, responsible and truly growing industry.

6. Sustainable Fashion Brands, Marketing and Advertising

This discussion on the marketing and advertising strategies adopted by four sustainable fashion brands, two Brazilian and two Portuguese, based on data obtained in ^{Silva's (2024}) research, reveals similarities and differences in how these brands use online and offline advertising, events, press relations, public relations, and strategic partnerships to strengthen their identity and expand their market presence. Table 1, Table 2, Table 3 and Table 4 provide relevant data that enable an analysis of how brands implement their strategies.

Table 1 Coding of data into criteria and key elements - advertising strategies 

Note. Adapted from ^{Silva (2024}), p. 48.

Table 2 Coding of data in to criteria and key elements - innovation and differentiation 

Note. Adapted from ^{Silva (2024}), p. 49.

Table 3 Coding of data in to criteria and key elements - princing strategies 

Note. Adapted from ^{Silva (2024}), p. 50.

Table 4 Coding of data into criteria and key elements - brand positioning 

Note. Adapted from ^{Silva (2024}), p. 47.

7. Marketing and Advertising Strategy: Perspectives

Multiple perspectives are presented on each brand under analysis, examining their advertising and, consequently, their marketing, with emphasis on the variables identified.

8. Summary of the Analysis of Brand Communication Strategies

Among the key advertising strategies for sustainable fashion that are theoretically supported in this study, the following stand out:

As the theoretical framework of this article points out, for a brand to stand out in the sustainable fashion market, its advertising strategy must be differentiated and focused on building value and trust. Transparency, combined with clear, educational and authentic communication about production practices and the supply chain, is essential to consolidate the brand image. Partnerships with NGOs and industry institutions reinforce authenticity and position brands as leaders.

In an increasingly digital market, investing in a consistent online presence with a well-structured website and optimised e-commerce platforms is crucial. In short, effective advertising for sustainable fashion must be ethical, technically well designed and focused on building lasting relationships with consumers. The more informed and engaged customers are, the greater their willingness to pay a premium for quality, differentiated, exclusive products that are aligned with social and environmental values. In this way, brands not only boost sales but also educate and transform perceptions of sustainable consumption, helping ethical fashion to consolidate itself as a new market model.

Owning to the inherent limitations of the research, which investigated only four brands in two specific countries, and the absence of other empirical research tools and additional data, broad generalisations should not be made based on its results. However, the study is relevant in that it highlights the fundamental need for small and medium-sized sustainable fashion companies to adapt and improve their advertising communication. Due to this initial relevance, the research underscores the importance of further studies to build a more robust understanding and enable conclusions applicable to a broader market context.

9. Conclusion

The research conducted by ^{Silva (2024}) analysed the advertising communication strategies of four sustainable fashion brands, two in Brazil and two in Portugal, seeking to understand how they approach the communication of their values in a complex market. The results indicate that, by adopting innovative communication strategies aligned with their values and sustainable production processes, the Flávia Aranha and Näz brands demonstrate communication more consistent with the concept of sustainable fashion than Humana and the Daterra Project. The latter, although engaged in social or environmental projects, often resort to more traditional marketing and advertising practices, which may limit the public's perception of their sustainable differentials and, consequently, their reach in the sustainable fashion niche.

The analysis of communication actions revealed the use of offline advertising, such as leafleting and participation in industry fairs, and online advertising, mainly through social media and ads on platforms such as Google Ads. Partnerships with NGOs and local designers are also strategies employed. Flávia Aranha, Humana, and Näz demonstrate a more consistent digital presence, better exploiting online platforms for communication. However, the Daterra Project faces challenges in structuring and executing its online communication. Despite the differences, all the brands analysed have the potential to strengthen their bond with consumers and deepen the communication of their commitment to sustainability, promoting environmental and social engagement.

Based on the analysis of specific cases, the study illustrates challenges and opportunities for implementing advertising with particular criteria and focuses on the sustainable fashion sector more broadly. The findings suggest a need for greater transparency and authenticity in brand communication. For sustainable fashion to achieve its purpose of transforming the industry, small and mediumsized brands need to adopt a genuinely committed stance towards minimising environmental and social impacts and invest in effective a dvertising. This advertising should go beyond simple information, seeking to create a relationship of trust and loyalty with consumers based on the authenticity of the brand's practices and a clear understanding on the part of consumers of what defines sustainability in fashion.

In this sense, various advertising tools and approaches, based on the communication needs identified in the analysis of the brands studied, can be adopted to strengthen the relationship with the public and justify the perceived value of sustainable products, which often have higher prices than fast fashion. In this context, content marketing, storytelling and sensory branding, experience marketing, relationship platforms, gamification and digital engagement, certifications and verified seals, and strategic use of influencers and ambassadors stood out.