<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?><article xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
<front>
<journal-meta>
<journal-id>0003-2573</journal-id>
<journal-title><![CDATA[Análise Social]]></journal-title>
<abbrev-journal-title><![CDATA[Anál. Social]]></abbrev-journal-title>
<issn>0003-2573</issn>
<publisher>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Instituto de Ciências Sociais da Universidade de Lisboa]]></publisher-name>
</publisher>
</journal-meta>
<article-meta>
<article-id>S0003-25732025000100400</article-id>
<article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.31447/2021136</article-id>
<title-group>
<article-title xml:lang="pt"><![CDATA[Agricultura, território e património: linguagem e práticas alimentares em Chefchaouen (Marrocos).]]></article-title>
<article-title xml:lang="en"><![CDATA[Agriculture, territory and heritage: language and food practices in Chefchaouen (Morocco).]]></article-title>
</title-group>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Lucas]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[Joana]]></given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="Aff"/>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="Af1">
<institution><![CDATA[,CRIA/NOVA-FCSH  ]]></institution>
<addr-line><![CDATA[Lisboa ]]></addr-line>
<country>Portugal</country>
</aff>
<pub-date pub-type="pub">
<day>00</day>
<month>03</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>00</day>
<month>03</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<numero>254</numero>
<copyright-statement/>
<copyright-year/>
<self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;pid=S0003-25732025000100400&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&amp;pid=S0003-25732025000100400&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_pdf&amp;pid=S0003-25732025000100400&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="pt"><p><![CDATA[Resumo Partindo do trabalho de campo etnográfico realizado em Chefchaouen (Marrocos), no rescaldo da classificação da &#8220;Dieta mediterrânica&#8221; como Património Cultural Imaterial pela unesco (2010; 2013), este texto procura refletir sobre as transformações das práticas alimentares na região à luz das políticas agrícolas nacionais e sobre a forma como a afirmação de uma narrativa patrimonial - apresentada como um valor adicional - vem trazer novos usos e significados à linguagem e às práticas locais relacionadas com os consumos alimentares no território. Centrando-se no conceito de beldi, amplamente utilizado em contexto marroquino no sentido de qualificar positivamente os produtos alimentares sob distintos pontos de vista, procurar-se-á discutir a forma como, em Chefchaouen, este conceito acabou por substituir o de &#8220;Dieta mediterrânica&#8221;, nos discursos produzidos sobre as práticas alimentares locais.]]></p></abstract>
<abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="en"><p><![CDATA[Abstract Based on ethnographic fieldwork carried out in Chefchaouen (Morocco), in the wake of the classification of the &#8220;Mediterranean Diet&#8221; as Intangible Cultural Heritage by unesco (2010; 2013), this text seeks to reflect on the transformations of food practices in the region in the light of national agricultural policies, and how the affirmation of a heritage narrative - presented as an additional value - has brought new uses and meanings to local language and practices related to food consumption in the territory. Focusing on the concept of beldi, widely used in Morocco to positively qualify food products from different points of view, we will try to discuss how, in Chefchaouen, this concept ended up replacing the &#8220;Mediterranean Diet&#8221; in the discourses produced about local food practices.]]></p></abstract>
<kwd-group>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Chefchaouen]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[&#8220;dieta mediterrânica&#8221;]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[património]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[alimentação]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Chefchaouen]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[&#8220;Mediterranean Diet&#8221;]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[heritage]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[food]]></kwd>
</kwd-group>
</article-meta>
</front><back>
<ref-list>
<ref id="B1">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[ATER]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[M]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Agrodiversity in the traditional agrosystems of the Rif mountains (north of Morocco)&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Biodiversity]]></source>
<year>2017</year>
<volume>9</volume>
<numero>1-2</numero>
<issue>1-2</issue>
<page-range>78-81</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B2">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[BAKKALI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[S]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[&#8220;The peculiarities of Chefchaouen&#8217;s cooking&#8221;]]></source>
<year>2019</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Chefchaouen ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[edição de autor]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B3">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[BENSOUSSAN]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[D]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Il était une fois le Maroc: témoignages du passé Judéo-Marocain]]></source>
<year>2012</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Montreal ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Les Éditions du Lys]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B4">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[BRULOTTE]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[R. L.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[DI GIOVINNI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[M]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage]]></source>
<year>2014</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Londres ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Routledge]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B5">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[CODRON]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J.-M.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[BOUHSINA]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[Z.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[FORT]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[F.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Supermarkets in low-income Mediterranean countries: impacts on horticulture systems&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Development Policy Review]]></source>
<year>2004</year>
<volume>22</volume>
<numero>5</numero>
<issue>5</issue>
<page-range>587-602</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B6">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[COHEN]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[AVIELI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[N]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Food and tourism: attraction and impediment]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Annals of Tourism Research]]></source>
<year>2004</year>
<volume>31</volume>
<numero>4</numero>
<issue>4</issue>
<page-range>755-78</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B7">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[DAVIS]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[D. K]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Neoliberalism, environmentalism, and agricultural restructuring in Morocco&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[The Geographical Journal]]></source>
<year>2006</year>
<volume>172</volume>
<numero>2</numero>
<issue>2</issue>
<page-range>88-105</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B8">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[EL OMARI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[F.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[TOUFIQ]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Le cannabis au Maroc: historique et épidémiologie&#8221;]]></article-title>
<person-group person-group-type="editor">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Streel]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Chinet]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[L]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Cannabis: approches thérapeutiques contemporaines]]></source>
<year>2008</year>
<page-range>137-46</page-range><publisher-loc><![CDATA[Bruxelas ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[De Boeck Supérieur]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B9">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[GEERTZ]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Suq: the bazaar economy in Sefrou&#8221;]]></article-title>
<person-group person-group-type="editor">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Geertz]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Geertz]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[H]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Rosen]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[L]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Meaning and Order in Moroccan Society. Three Essays in Cultural Analysis]]></source>
<year>1979</year>
<page-range>123-314</page-range><publisher-loc><![CDATA[Cambridge ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Cambridge University Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B10">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[GRAF]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[K]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Beldi matters: negotiating proper food in urban Moroccan food consumption and preparation&#8221;]]></article-title>
<person-group person-group-type="editor">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Bergeaud-Blackler]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[F]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Fisher]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Lever]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Halal Matters. Islam, Politics and Markets in Global Perspective]]></source>
<year>2016</year>
<page-range>72-90</page-range><publisher-loc><![CDATA[Londres Nova Iorque ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Routledge]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B11">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[HAFSTEIN]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[V]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Intangible heritage as a list: From masterpieces to representation&#8221;]]></article-title>
<person-group person-group-type="editor">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Smith]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[L]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Akagawa]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[N]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Intangible Heritage]]></source>
<year>2009</year>
<page-range>93-111</page-range><publisher-loc><![CDATA[Londres ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Routledge]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B12">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[HUBERT]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[A]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Cuisine et politique: le plat national existe-t-il?&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Revue des Sciences Sociales]]></source>
<year>2000</year>
<volume>27</volume>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B13">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[JABIOT]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[I]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220; &#8216;Beldi-Roumi&#8217;: hétérogénéité d&#8217;une qualification ordinaire&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Les Études et Essais du Centre Jacques-Berque]]></source>
<year>2015</year>
<volume>25</volume>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B14">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[JAZI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[S]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Les valeurs de consommation des produits bio et &#8216;beldi&#8217; au Maroc&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Revue Marocaine de Recherche en Management et Marketing]]></source>
<year>2014</year>
<volume>9-10</volume>
<page-range>209-23</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B15">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[KIRSHENBLATT-GIMBLETT]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[B]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Intangible heritage as metacultural production&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Museum International]]></source>
<year>2004</year>
<volume>56</volume>
<page-range>52-65</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B16">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[LAAZAR]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[M]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Conse´quences de l&#8217;e´migration dans les montagnes du Rif Central (Maroc)&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Revue europe´enne des migrations internationales]]></source>
<year>1987</year>
<volume>3</volume>
<numero>1-2</numero>
<issue>1-2</issue>
<page-range>97-114</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B17">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[LONG]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[L]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Culinary Tourism]]></source>
<year>2004</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Lexington ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[The University Press of Kentucky]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B18">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[LUM]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[FERRIÈRE DE VAYER]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[M]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Urban Foodways and Communication. Ethnographic Studies in Intangible Cultural Food Heritages around the World]]></source>
<year>2016</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Londres ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Rowmann &amp; Littlefield]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B19">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[MERLO]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[T.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[ALAMI]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[H]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Inventario sobre el patrimonio inmaterial vinculado a la dieta mediterranea de Chefchaouen]]></source>
<year></year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Chefchaouen ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Association Talassemtane pour l&#8217;Environnement et le Développement]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B20">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<collab>MONOGRAPHIE PROVINCIALE DE CHEFCHAOUEN</collab>
<source><![CDATA[Direction Régionale de Tanger-Tétouan-Al Hoceima]]></source>
<year>2018</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Casablanca ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Haut-Commissariat au Plan]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B21">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[MOUNA]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[K]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Le bled du kif. E´conomie et pouvoir chez les Ketama du Rif]]></source>
<year>2010</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Paris ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Ibis Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B22">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<collab>OBSERVATOIRE DU TOURISME MAROC</collab>
<source><![CDATA[Annuaire statistique du tourisme: panorama des performances touristiques au titre de l&#8217;anne´e 2015]]></source>
<year>2015</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Casablanca ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Observatoire du Tourisme Maroc]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B23">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[PARKER]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[T]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Tasting French Terroir: The History of an Idea]]></source>
<year>2015</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Oakland ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[University of California Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B24">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[SIMENEL]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[R]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;Beldi/Roumi, une conception marocaine du produit du terroir. L&#8217;exemple des Ai¨t Ba&#8217;Amran de la re´gion de Sidi Ifni&#8221;]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[Hesperis-Tamuda]]></source>
<year>2010</year>
<volume>XLV</volume>
<page-range>167-75</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B25">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[SLOAN]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[P.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[LEGRAND]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[W.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[HINDLEY]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The Routledge Handbook of Sustainable Food and Gastronomy]]></source>
<year>2015</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Londres e Nova Iorque ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Routledge]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B26">
<nlm-citation citation-type="">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[SWEARINGEN]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[W. D]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Moroccan Mirages: Agrarian Dreams and Deceptions, 1912-1986]]></source>
<year>1988</year>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B27">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[TRUBEK]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[A]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The Taste of Place. A Cultural Journey into Terroir]]></source>
<year>2008</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Berkeley ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[University of California Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B28">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<collab>UNESCO</collab>
<source><![CDATA[Nomination file n.º 00884]]></source>
<year>2010</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Paris ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[UNESCO]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B29">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[VAN ESTERIK]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[P]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8220;From hunger food to heritage foods: challenges to food localization in Lao PDR&#8221;]]></article-title>
<person-group person-group-type="editor">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Wilk]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[R]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Fast Food/Slow Food: The Cultural Economy of the Global Food System]]></source>
<year>2006</year>
<page-range>83-96</page-range><publisher-loc><![CDATA[Lanham ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[AltaMira Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B30">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[VIGNET-ZUNZ]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J. J]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Les Jbala du Rif: des lettre´s en montagne]]></source>
<year>2014</year>
<publisher-loc><![CDATA[Casablanca ]]></publisher-loc>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Editions la Croise´e des Chemins]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
</ref-list>
</back>
</article>
