Dye Plants

Maria do Carmo Serrano¹, Ana Carreira Lopes², Ana Isabel Seruya³

RESUMO

Existe uma vasta bibliografia, até ao séc. XVIII, sobre plantas produtoras de corantes naturais, sendo que apenas um número limitado foi utilizado no tingimento de têxteis antigos, devido à capacidade de resistência à lavagem e ao desvanecimento. O cultivo de plantas ou a sua existência no mundo silvestre tiveram uma enorme importância sócio-económica para muitas comunidades espalhadas pelo mundo e pelas intensas trocas comerciais que geraram. A extracção dos corantes era feita a partir de diferentes partes de plantas ou árvores. Nalgumas plantas eram utilizadas as folhas, enquanto noutras se aproveitavam as flores, as raízes, os frutos, troncos ou sementes.

Os corantes podiam ser extraídos através de processos complexos que envolviam diversas operações como maceração, destilação, fermentação, decantação, precipitação, filtração, etc. Neste âmbito, são apresentadas algumas das plantas cultivadas em Portugal e em muitos outros países europeus e que foram usadas em tinturaria.

Este trabalho pretende ser um contributo para obstar à perda de conhecimentos das condições de cultivo e da forma como se maximizava a produção de corantes.

ABSTRACT

A vast bibliography exists, until the 18^th cen-tury, on natural dyes obtained from plants, but only one limited number was used in the dyeing of old textiles, due to capacity of resistance to wash and light fading. The culture of plants or its existence in the wild world had an enormous economical importance for many communities spread for the world, and the intense commercial exchanges that had generated. The extraction of dyes was done from different parts of plants or trees. In some plants was used the leaves, others, only the roots, the fruits, trunks or seeds. The dyes could be extracted through complex processes that involved various operations as maceration, distillation, fermentation, decantation, precipitation, filtration, etc. In this scope, some of the plants cultivated in Portugal are presented and in many other European countries and that they had been used on dyeing.

This work intends to contribute to the loss knowledge of the conditions of culture and to the form of how it was maximized the production of dyes.

Key-words: Dye plants, extraction, purification, precipitation, filtration, dyeing.

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¹ Instituto Nacional dos Recursos Biológicos, L-INIA – carmoserrano@gmail.com – Av. da República, Quinta do Marquês, 2784-505 OEIRAS

² Universidade da Beira Interior – Departamento de Química, 6201-001 COVILHÃ

³ Instituto Português de Conservação e Restauro, Rua das Janelas Verdes, 37, 1249-018 Lisboa

Recepção/Reception: 2007.06.25 aceitação/acception: 2007.07.18