<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?><article xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
<front>
<journal-meta>
<journal-id>2184-0180</journal-id>
<journal-title><![CDATA[Convergências - Revista de Investigação e Ensino das Artes]]></journal-title>
<abbrev-journal-title><![CDATA[Revista Convergências]]></abbrev-journal-title>
<issn>2184-0180</issn>
<publisher>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Escola Superior de Artes AplicadasInstituto Politécnico Castelo Branco]]></publisher-name>
</publisher>
</journal-meta>
<article-meta>
<article-id>S2184-01802022000200121</article-id>
<article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.53681/c1514225187514391s.30.150</article-id>
<title-group>
<article-title xml:lang="en"><![CDATA[Mourning jewelry in late Georgian and Victorian Britain: a world of fantasy and tears]]></article-title>
<article-title xml:lang="pt"><![CDATA[Jóias de luto na Geórgia tardia e na Grã-Bretanha vitoriana: um mundo de fantasia e lágrimas.]]></article-title>
</title-group>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Tsoumas]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[Johannis]]></given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="Aff"/>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="Aaf"/>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="Af1">
<institution><![CDATA[,Hellenic Open University  ]]></institution>
<addr-line><![CDATA[ ]]></addr-line>
<country>Greece</country>
</aff>
<aff id="Af2">
<institution><![CDATA[,University of West Attica Department of Applied Arts and Culture School of Interior Architecture]]></institution>
<addr-line><![CDATA[ ]]></addr-line>
<country>Greece</country>
</aff>
<pub-date pub-type="pub">
<day>30</day>
<month>11</month>
<year>2022</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>30</day>
<month>11</month>
<year>2022</year>
</pub-date>
<volume>15</volume>
<numero>30</numero>
<fpage>121</fpage>
<lpage>134</lpage>
<copyright-statement/>
<copyright-year/>
<self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;pid=S2184-01802022000200121&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&amp;pid=S2184-01802022000200121&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_pdf&amp;pid=S2184-01802022000200121&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="en"><p><![CDATA[Abstract The main objective of this research paper is to trace and enhance the development of British mourning jewelry and rituals through the magnificent historical, cultural, artistic and technological changes of the long nineteenth century. Methodologically, via extensive bibliographical references, the author examines profoundly the roles of the nineteenth century royal courts and personalities, specifically those of the late Georgian and mid Victorian period and first focuses on the French influenced British mourning jewelry. Through an analysis of selected mourning jewelry types he tries to reveal the aesthetic and symbolic characteristics on which the later British burial tradition was based on. Subsequently, he focalizes on Queen Victoria&#8217;s personality in severely reshaping the ideal of traditional burial practices and thus reestablishing the idea of modern British mourning customs, among which mourning jewelry was of predominant importance, reaching their peak in the 1880s.]]></p></abstract>
<abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="pt"><p><![CDATA[Resumo O principal objectivo deste trabalho de investigação é traçar e melhorar o desenvolvimento das jóias e rituais de luto britânicos através das magníficas mudanças históricas, culturais, artísticas e tecnológicas do longo século XIX. Metodologicamente, através de extensas referências bibliográficas, o autor examina profundamente os papéis dos tribunais e personalidades reais do século XIX, especificamente os do final do era georgiana e meados do período vitoriano e foca primeiro as jóias de luto britânicas de influência francesa. Através de uma análise de jóias de luto seleccionadas, tenta revelar as características estéticas e simbólicas em que se baseou a posterior tradição funerária britânica. Posteriormente, concentra-se na personalidade da Rainha Vitória, reformulando severamente o ideal das práticas de luto tradicionais e restabelecendo assim a ideia dos costumes de luto britânicos modernos, entre os quais a jóia de luto era de importância predominante, atingindo o seu auge na década de 1880.]]></p></abstract>
<kwd-group>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Georgian period]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Victorian times]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[burial tradition]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[memories]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[mourning jewelry]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Era Georgiana]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Época Vitorianos]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Tradição Funerária]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Memórias]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Jóias de Luto]]></kwd>
</kwd-group>
</article-meta>
</front><back>
<ref-list>
<ref id="B1">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Symons]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[A.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The poems and prose of Ernest Dowso]]></source>
<year>1900</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[The Modern Library Publications]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B2">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Reynolds]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[A.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Anglo-Saxon Deviant Burial Customs]]></source>
<year>2009</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Oxford University Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B3">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Robben]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[A. C. G. M.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Death, Mourning and Burial: A Cross-Cultural Reader]]></source>
<year>2009</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Wiley]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B4">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Jalland]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[P.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Death in the Victorian Family]]></source>
<year>1996</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Oxford University Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B5">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Crowley]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[D.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Introduction to Victorian Style]]></source>
<year>1990</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Apple Press Ltd]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B6">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Braaten]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C. E.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Jenson]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[R. W.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Christian Dogmatics]]></source>
<year>2011</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Fortress Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B7">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Wytovich]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[S.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Mourning Jewelry]]></source>
<year>2014</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Raw Dog Screaming Press]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B8">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Tresidder]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[&#8216;Heart&#8217; in: The Watkins Dictionary of Symbols]]></source>
<year>2008</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Watkins Publishing]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B9">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Bietoletti]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[S.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Neoclassicism and Romanticism]]></source>
<year>2005</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Sterling Publishing]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B10">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Dethlefsen]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Deetz]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[Death&#8217;s Heads, Cherubs, and Willow Trees: Experimental Archaeology in Colonial Cemeteries]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[American Antiquity]]></source>
<year>1966</year>
<volume>31</volume>
<numero>4</numero>
<issue>4</issue>
<page-range>504</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B11">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Smith]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[L. E.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[A History of Industrial Design]]></source>
<year>1983</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Faedon]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B12">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Tolkien]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[T.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Wilkinson]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[H.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[A Collector&#8217;s Guide to Costume Jewelry Key Styles and how to recognize them]]></source>
<year>1997</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Thames &amp; Hudson]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B13">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Aslin]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The Aesthetic Movement (Prelude to Art Nouveau)]]></source>
<year>1969</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Elek Books Ltd]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B14">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Woodyard]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[C.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The Victorian Book of the Dead (The Ghosts of the Past 4)]]></source>
<year>2014</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Kestrel Publications]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B15">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Rappaport]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[H.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Magnificent Obsession: Victoria, Albert and the Death that Changed the Monarchy]]></source>
<year>2011</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Hutchinson]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B16">
<nlm-citation citation-type="journal">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Bedikian]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[S. A.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<article-title xml:lang=""><![CDATA[&#8216;The Death of Mourning: From Victorian Crepe to the Little Black Dress]]></article-title>
<source><![CDATA[OMEGA - Journal of Death and Dying]]></source>
<year>2008</year>
<volume>57</volume>
<numero>1</numero>
<issue>1</issue>
<page-range>35</page-range></nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B17">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Hartley]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[F.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The ladies&#8217; book of etiquette, and manual of politeness - a complete handbook for the use of the lady in polite society]]></source>
<year>1872</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Lee and Shepard Publishers]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B18">
<nlm-citation citation-type="">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Bronte]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E. A.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Victorian Mourning Jewelry]]></source>
<year>2018</year>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B19">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[. Gradstein]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[F.M.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Ogg]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[J.G.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Schmitz]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[M.D.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Ogg]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[G.M.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[The Geologic Timescale]]></source>
<year>2012</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Elsevier]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
<ref id="B20">
<nlm-citation citation-type="book">
<person-group person-group-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Lehner]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[E.]]></given-names>
</name>
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Lehner]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[G.]]></given-names>
</name>
</person-group>
<source><![CDATA[Folklore and Symbolism of Flowers, Plants and Trees]]></source>
<year>2003</year>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Tudor Publishing Company]]></publisher-name>
</nlm-citation>
</ref>
</ref-list>
</back>
</article>
