<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?><article xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
<front>
<journal-meta>
<journal-id>2184-0180</journal-id>
<journal-title><![CDATA[Convergências - Revista de Investigação e Ensino das Artes]]></journal-title>
<abbrev-journal-title><![CDATA[Revista Convergências]]></abbrev-journal-title>
<issn>2184-0180</issn>
<publisher>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Escola Superior de Artes AplicadasInstituto Politécnico Castelo Branco]]></publisher-name>
</publisher>
</journal-meta>
<article-meta>
<article-id>S2184-01802025000200133</article-id>
<article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.53681/c1514225187514391s.36.332</article-id>
<title-group>
<article-title xml:lang="en"><![CDATA[Beyond the catwalk. Designing fashion shows between ephemerality and responsibility]]></article-title>
<article-title xml:lang="pt"><![CDATA[Para além da passerelle. Conceber desfiles de moda entre a efemeridade e a responsabilidade]]></article-title>
</title-group>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Franzo]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[Paolo]]></given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="Aff"/>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="Af1">
<institution><![CDATA[,Università degli Studi di Firenze  ]]></institution>
<addr-line><![CDATA[ ]]></addr-line>
<country>Italy</country>
</aff>
<pub-date pub-type="pub">
<day>00</day>
<month>12</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>00</day>
<month>12</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<volume>18</volume>
<numero>36</numero>
<fpage>133</fpage>
<lpage>144</lpage>
<copyright-statement/>
<copyright-year/>
<self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;pid=S2184-01802025000200133&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&amp;pid=S2184-01802025000200133&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_pdf&amp;pid=S2184-01802025000200133&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="en"><p><![CDATA[Abstract Fashion shows have been the subject of increasing critical attention for their environmental and symbolic impact, resulting emblematic of the contradictions of contemporary spectacular capitalism. While originally they were functional moments for the presentation of seasonal collections, today they are configured as real artistic productions with a high consumption of resources, often organised in exotic or symbolic places, with a significant ecological footprint. However, since the Covid-19 pandemic, there has been an intensification of reflection on the organisational methods and transformative potential of these events. This article analyses three emerging approaches that show concrete attempts to reconfigure fashion shows in an ecological and sustainable way: the use of nature as a performative setting, the aestheticisation of waste and the promotion of circularity. Through the critical analysis of case studies - from the fashion shows immersed in nature by Marine Serre and Jacquemus, to the use of recycled materials by Marni and Diesel, to the reuse and conscious design policies promoted by Bureau Betak, Prada and Spazio Meta - both the expressive potential and the structural limits of these practices are highlighted. In particular, the article emphasises how the sustainability of fashion shows cannot be addressed only as a technical issue, but implies a cultural, aesthetic and political rethinking of the very role of fashion within contemporary society. Fashion shows thus become not only brand communication tools, but also performative spaces in which new relationships between creativity, environment and cultural production are negotiated.]]></p></abstract>
<abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="pt"><p><![CDATA[Resumo Os desfiles de moda têm sido alvo de uma atenção crítica crescente pelo seu impacto ambiental e simbólico, tornando-se emblemáticos das contradições do capitalismo espetacular contemporâneo. Se originalmente constituíam momentos funcionais de apresentação de colecções sazonais, hoje assumem a forma de verdadeiras produções artísticas com um elevado consumo de recursos, muitas vezes organizados em locais exóticos ou simbólicos, com uma pegada ecológica significativa. No entanto, desde a pandemia de Covid-19, intensificou-se a reflexão sobre a forma como estes eventos são organizados e o seu potencial transformador. O artigo analisa três abordagens emergentes que revelam tentativas concretas de reconfigurar os desfiles de moda de forma ecológica e sustentável: a utilização da natureza como cenário performativo, a estetização dos resíduos e a promoção da circularidade. Através da análise crítica de estudos de caso - desde os desfiles imersos na natureza da Marine Serre e da Jacquemus, passando pela utilização de materiais reciclados da Marni e da Diesel, até às políticas de reutilização e design consciente promovidas pelo Bureau Betak, Prada e Spazio Meta - são evidenciadas as potencialidades expressivas e os limites estruturais destas práticas. Em particular, o artigo sublinha como a sustentabilidade dos desfiles de moda não pode ser abordada apenas como uma questão técnica, mas implica um repensar cultural, estético e político do próprio papel da moda na sociedade contemporânea. Os desfiles de moda tornam-se assim não só instrumentos de comunicação das marcas, mas também espaços performativos onde se negoceiam novas relações entre criatividade, ambiente e produção cultural.]]></p></abstract>
<kwd-group>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Fashion shows]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Ecodesign]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Circular Practices]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Responsibility]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Ephemeral Events]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Desfiles de moda]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Ecodesign]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Práticas circulares]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Responsabilidade]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[Eventos efémeros]]></kwd>
</kwd-group>
</article-meta>
</front><back>
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