<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?><article xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
<front>
<journal-meta>
<journal-id>2184-1284</journal-id>
<journal-title><![CDATA[Vista. Revista de Cultura Visual]]></journal-title>
<abbrev-journal-title><![CDATA[Vista]]></abbrev-journal-title>
<issn>2184-1284</issn>
<publisher>
<publisher-name><![CDATA[Centro de Estudos de Comunicação e Sociedade]]></publisher-name>
</publisher>
</journal-meta>
<article-meta>
<article-id>S2184-12842025000102003</article-id>
<article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.21814/vista.6275</article-id>
<title-group>
<article-title xml:lang="pt"><![CDATA[O Vestuário das Mulheres em Portugal e em Goa, no Século XVI - Um Estudo Comparativo]]></article-title>
<article-title xml:lang="en"><![CDATA[Women&#8217;s Clothing in Portugal and Goa in the 16th Century: A Comparative Study]]></article-title>
</title-group>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname><![CDATA[Vasconcelos]]></surname>
<given-names><![CDATA[Rafaela]]></given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="Aff"/>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="Af1">
<institution><![CDATA[,Universidade NOVA de Lisboa Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas ]]></institution>
<addr-line><![CDATA[Lisboa ]]></addr-line>
<country>Portugal</country>
</aff>
<pub-date pub-type="pub">
<day>00</day>
<month>01</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>00</day>
<month>01</month>
<year>2025</year>
</pub-date>
<numero>15</numero>
<copyright-statement/>
<copyright-year/>
<self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&amp;pid=S2184-12842025000102003&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&amp;pid=S2184-12842025000102003&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="http://scielo.pt/scielo.php?script=sci_pdf&amp;pid=S2184-12842025000102003&amp;lng=en&amp;nrm=iso"></self-uri><abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="pt"><p><![CDATA[Resumo O presente trabalho tem como intuito uma abordagem comparativa às fontes quinhentistas sobre a forma como as mulheres são percecionadas a partir do vestuário. Focamo-nos na mulher em Portugal e em Goa, no contexto da sociedade católica do século XVI, a partir de relatos escritos por homens. Sabendo que a moda enquadra um indivíduo no seu meio, procuramos entender de que modo a religião influencia o modelo do traje feminino, uma vez que, enquanto no século em questão, Portugal se mantém fiel ao Cristianismo, Goa é, à chegada dos portugueses, um local onde coexistem diversas religiões, nomeadamente o Hinduísmo (religião a que daremos mais enfoque neste trabalho, devido ao maior número de dados). O território de Goa é parte de um processo de expansão marítima, concluindo-se que ocorre uma mútua influência cultural que se irá refletir no papel e vestuário da mulher em ambos os territórios. São obras de referência a de Fernando Oliveira (1993), o qual analisa as diversas peças de vestuário na sua composição. No entanto, devido ao reduzido enfoque da academia neste tema, analisámos teses académica, como a de Pedro Castro Cruz (2023), que investiga as Sumptuárias ao longo do período moderno. A pesquisa deste trabalho segue o método histórico, a partir de uma análise comparativa de fontes documentais já previamente exploradas pela historiografia, mas às quais pretendemos colocar novas questões. São estas os relatos de viagem de Jan Huygen van Linschoten (1596/1885a, 1596/1885b) e de François Pyrard de Laval (1944) e as Leis Extravagantes, compiladas por Duarte Nunes de Leão (1569). Este trabalho é inovador, no sentido em que, pela primeira vez, compara o vestuário da mulher em dois extremos do império português, a partir da visão dos homens.]]></p></abstract>
<abstract abstract-type="short" xml:lang="en"><p><![CDATA[Abstract This paper adopts a comparative approach to 16th-century sources concerning the perception of women through their clothing. It focuses on women in Portugal and Goa within the context of 16th-century Catholic society, using male-authored accounts. Understanding fashion as a marker of cultural belonging, this study examines how religious beliefs and practices influence women&#8217;s modes of dress. While Portugal maintained its Christian identity throughout this period, Goa - at the time of the Portuguese arrival - was home to a diversity of religious traditions, particularly Hinduism, which this study emphasises due to the greater availability of sources. As part of the broader Portuguese maritime expansion, Goa experienced processes of cultural exchange that shaped the roles and clothing of women in both territories. Foundational reference works include Fernando Oliveira (1993), who analyses the composition of various garments. However, due to the limited academic focus specifically on women's clothing in this context, the study also draws on recent academic theses, such as that of Pedro Castro Cruz (2023), which examines sumptuary dress across the early modern period. The research follows a historical methodology, using comparative analysis of previously studied documentary sources to pose new interpretative questions. Primary sources include the travel accounts of Jan Huygen van Linschoten (1596/1885a, 1596/1885b) and François Pyrard de Laval (1944), as well as the Leis Extravagantes (Extravagant Laws) compiled by Duarte Nunes de Leão (1569). This study is original in comparing female clothing at two geographic and cultural extremes of the Portuguese empire, as interpreted through male perspectives.]]></p></abstract>
<kwd-group>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[história e cultura da moda]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[sociedades coloniais ibéricas]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[olhar genderizado]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[período moderno]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="pt"><![CDATA[religião]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[fashion history and culture]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[Iberian colonial societies]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[gendered gaze]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[early modern period]]></kwd>
<kwd lng="en"><![CDATA[religion]]></kwd>
</kwd-group>
</article-meta>
</front><back>
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